Maninjau

(from Thursday)

It’s Thursday afternoon, my last Thursday in Indonesia—why haven’t all the Thursdays been this good?—and as I write, waves lap up against the shore of the lake, all of 15 feet from the front of my bungalow. I’ve just been delivered a tall glass of sirsak juice, which has become one of my favorites, and I’d like to know what it’s called in English because I’ve never seen the actual fruit. Perhaps something tropical that’s not available even at Berkeley Bowl.

I came to this lake—Lake Maninjau—not for the creature comforts, though I’m quite enjoying those, but instead because not only had I read that it was beautiful, but the fishing is supposed to be a sight to behold. And the drive here was gorgeous as well. I sat for two full hours in the station, waiting for the bus to leave, and for once in my life, didn’t get so stressed out about it. The wait wasn’t so lovely, but the ride was, mostly through terraced rice paddies, and then down forty some odd switchbacks (I didn’t count but they’re numbered, some with cafes, nearly all with sponsors, but not at all crassly done).

I’m staying at Arlen’s Paradise, and it’s about a quarter mile jaunt through the rice paddies from where the bus dropped me off to here. For $15, I’ve got a queen-sized bed, private bath, deck, electricity, mosquito netting (strangely only the second place on the entire trip that’s had it) and natural air conditioning coming right off the lake. I think that this should become my favorite place in Indonesia over the next 24 hours, and if it does, perhaps I’ll stay 48.

Bukittinggi was easily one of the nicer cities that I’d visited in Indonesia—not saying all that much since they’ve been consistently short on charm and long on traffic and people—and until I came here, I didn’t mind the thought of going back. Like this lake, it’s at an elevation of around 1000 meters so it’s got great weather and a fair amount of character. And like the rest of Indonesia, folks are most friendly, and that (nice weather + nice people + interesting stuff) is a winning combination just about anywhere. I’m really glad to be finishing up my trip here.